Conversations from Kochi: Teruhiko Katsuragawa (Happy Raft)
We arrived at Happy Raft, located in Otoyo near the center of Kochi, early in the morning. The morning mist clung to the steep mountains on either side of the Yoshino River, chilling the damp air. Teruhiko Katsuragawa (49), the owner of Happy Raft, welcomed us in. We must have looked tired as he offered to make us some hot coffee, which we gratefully accepted.
Happy Raft is like a secret base hidden away in nature. There are only three walls: the back opens out to a view overlooking the rushing Yoshino River, where Happy Raft’s certified guides offer whitewater rafting and canyoning for beginners and seasoned adventurers alike. Sitting among a hodgepodge of mismatched furniture and photos of wetsuit-clad customers squealing in delight on the river, the base camp feels like a lovingly-made scrapbook that documents Happy Raft's history.
Teruhiko returns with steaming mugs of coffee. Sitting at a thick wooden table, he looks a little nervous. “I’m not sure how this works,” he says, almost apologetic. “Whatever you ask, I’ll give you an honest answer.” He has an easy nature, is laid-back, and at home in his surroundings.
Originally born in Gero (Gifu Prefecture), a place famous for its hot springs, he grew up among much of the same natural landscape as Otoyo: mountains. However, the mountains of Gero “are spaced much farther apart (than here). There are large, flat valleys in between and the skies are more open,” he says. So how did he end up in Otoyo, quite removed not only from Gero, but from urban spaces as well?
As a child, Teruhiko grew up skiing and practicing karate. “I never wanted to wear a suit and tie,” he says. “I wanted to work outdoors, like on ski mountains. I never had any issues finding work in the winter. But summer was another story. While looking for a summer job, I came across an advertisement looking for whitewater rafting guides. I called them and it turned out the job was in Shikoku (an island made up of four prefectures located below Honshu). They asked me ‘when can you get here?’ and I said ‘I’ll be there tomorrow!’ That was in May 1999.”
He had previously done some whitewater rafting while in Canada, but the memory, he says, was lackluster. Having never visited Kochi before then, I asked what his first impression was. He laughs, “That was 20 years ago! Who knows.” But what he does remember are the training sessions that consumed the first two months of his stay. They were hard, both physically and mentally, having to overcome the initial intimidation of the river he would come to know so well.
After five years in Kochi, he went to work abroad for the first time at 28, looking to gain more experience with whitewater rafting in New Zealand. After returning, he and Mark, a former colleague, began Happy Raft with a staff of just four. Things were very DIY: “Everything we had was old gear purchased from another company. But it was gear and we had it. All we needed to do was think of how to bring in customers and what kind of base camp we wanted. We had lots of help from the locals, too.”
When asked about the Yoshino River, Teruhiko explains: “In terms of whitewater rafting, the Yoshino River is the best river in all of Japan, and in the top among rivers around the world for sure. Since we can’t go whitewater rafting in the winter, I spent 10 years chasing summers and barreling down rapids around the world. If you’re looking for wild, raging rapids, you look to the rivers in Africa, America. But what makes the Yoshino River special is that after the rapids, there are always drop-pools (a calm pool of water). Even if your raft capsizes along the way, the water here is warm and you end up in the drop-pool where you can be helped.”
In other rivers around the world, the stakes are higher: colder water temperatures mean capsizing becomes a matter of life or death and inexperienced rafters become a risk. But not on the Yoshino River. “Everyone has a good time here, even those who can’t swim! Almost everyone who comes here is a beginner. One of the best things about whitewater rafting is that anyone can ride the rapids of a Grade V river. It can be a little intimidating and we get people who come in nervous, but they conquer that fear, and even if the raft capsizes, it’s not as bad as they thought and they have a great time.”
Another great thing about the Yoshino River is that in the summer, the water level rises. Generally, the opposite is true, but in the summer, the nearby Sameura Dam releases water in anticipation of the rice harvesting season, bringing higher water levels to the river right where Happy Raft is located. “This is truly a miraculous sweet spot,” says Teruhiko. “Plus, it’s easily accessible in case of an accident. There’s a road that runs right along the river. In some countries, once you’re in the water, you can’t get out for a week. If something happens, you have to be rescued by helicopter. Not here. Here, you can get help easily.” It may be easily accessible, but the area still retains a sense of being removed from civilization.
“There’s no concrete around here and the population is sparse,” he says. “There’s a lot of space in-between. It might be strange to say, but I don’t really want this place to become a tourist destination. Having huge crowds here would destroy what is so great about it. I want it to be a place where those who want peace and quiet can get peace and quiet. But I also really want everyone to come and experience whitewater rafting here. It’s a difficult balance.”
Balance might be the most apt word to describe both Happy Raft and whitewater rafting itself. Able to fit eight people into one raft, the experience changes depending on how many people are aboard. More people means it’s harder to steer, but also able to plough through rapids with ease. On the other hand, less people means less hard work for guides, but an increased risk of capsizing due to the lack of weight. Sometimes to balance numbers, different small groups will be placed on the same boat, leading to friendships and even the occasional marriage. In the past 10 years, Happy Raft has seen an increase in families coming to take on the challenge of the river together, leading to new discoveries and stronger ties.
Teruhiko strives to make every customer experience unforgettable. “I love my job and the Yoshino River, so I’m happy just to be here every day. That’s what I want the customers to take away from their experience: joy. We’ve been out on this river 200 times or so, but for our customers, it’s their first time. Some people have planned out their trip six months ahead of time and they’re just so excited and ready, and I always keep that in mind.” When riding the rapids is just another day, it can be easy to fall into a routine. Teruhiko and his staff are careful not to fall into that trap.
Having been abroad, he knows what it feels like to be in an unfamiliar place and feeling a little lonely. His experience means that he understands what visitors here are going through and can anticipate their needs and fears to put their minds at ease. “Everyone on our staff has traveled around the world and have no trouble communicating with visitors from overseas. They’re quick to ask how people are, if they need help or tourism information, or make a phone call on their behalf. Whitewater rafting is a team sport. I need your help and you need mine. You can’t take on a Grade V river alone.”
Looking around the base camp, that couldn’t be more evident. Many hands have helped to build this place and many hands help it continue to grow. Whether it’s navigating the rapids of the Yoshino River or navigating the fine line between tourism and overtourism, Teruhiko and the staff at Happy Raft are a team and ready to ride the river whatever comes.
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Happy Raft
Address: 221-1 Ikadagi, Otoyo-cho, Nagaoka-gun, Kochi
Best season: Late May to early September
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